Prince Albert’s Sapphire Cluster Brooch

Prince Albert is remembered for many things – his interest in science and farming, his patronage of the arts, and the personal triumph that was the Great Exhibition – but what not enough people talk about, outside of already interested circles, is his fantastic eye for jewels.

During the course of their 21-year marriage, Albert gifted Victoria with some fabulous baubles. Sadly, many of them no longer call the royal vault home, having been left to subsequent royal princesses, whose families have then gone on to sell them. One notable example of this is the sapphire and diamond coronet, gifted to Princess Mary, The Princess Royal, by her parents, George V and Queen Mary, upon her marriage to Viscount Lascelles in 1922. It remained in Mary’s family after her death, but was eventually sold in 2011. A further sale, and an attempt to export the coronet out of the UK, saw the government intervene, and eventually it was purchased and gifted to the Victoria & Albert Museum by William Bollinger.

However, one of the items that does remain in royal circulation, is also one of the very first items of jewellery that Albert gave to his intended.

The night before their wedding, Albert gifted Victoria with a striking sapphire and diamond cluster brooch. She recorded the moment in her diary:

“My precious Albert gave me a splendid and lovely broach of an immense Sapphire, set round with diamonds; it is quite beautiful.”

So pleased was she with the brooch, that she wore it the following day, pinned to the bodice of her wedding gown – her something blue! She went on to wear at other memorable occasions, such as the christening of her eldest child Vicky, The Princess Royal.

The provenance of the brooch is uncertain. Until recently it was believed to have been commissioned from Garrard by Prince Albert – indeed, Prince Albert’s ledger does record that he purchased items from Garrard,  and their website also reports this story to be the case. However, recent research by historian Erik Shoonhoven has cast doubt on this. His research indicates that the brooch was actually purchased from the Dutch Court Jeweller, Josephus Jitta, by Albert’s father, Ernest I, Duke of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha.

Whatever the truth of its origins, what is known is that the brooch was very special to Victoria, and she wore it regularly up until Albert’s death. It’s importance to her was further confirmed when she designated it an ‘heirloom of the crown’ upon her death’ ensuring it stayed within the main royal line for the use of future queens, regnant and consort.

And all subsequent queens have worn the brooch, although, Alexandra, Mary, and Elizabeth (the Queen Mother) wore it infrequently. With Elizabeth II, however, the brooch became a firm favourite, and she wore many times throughout her reign.

Whether or not the original was created by Garrard, the most famous piece of royal jewellery in recent years was most definitely inspired by it. Lady Diana Spencer broke with royal tradition when she picked her engagement ring from the Garrard catalogue, as typically royal brides would have something custom made.

The ring features a 12 carat Ceylon sapphire, surrounded by a halo of diamonds, and is set in 18 carat white gold. Diana loved the ring and continued to wear it, even after separating from Charles. In more recent times, the ring can be seen on the hand of Catherine, The Princess of Wales.

A smaller version of the brooch was purchased – although, again, there are conflicting stories about it’s origins. It was originally thought that Albert had commissioned additional versions of the brooch for his daughters, but Erik Shoonhoven believed it had been purchased from the same jeweller as the original at around the same time. This brooch was believed to have been inherited by Princess Helena, and ultimately found it’s way to auction, where Queen Elizabeth II purchased it for her daughter, Princess Anne, The Princess Royal.

Since the late queen’s passing, Prince Albert’s brooch has once again passed to a new owner, and Queen Camilla too, has now shared in this family heirloom.